A sweetheart neckline dips in two curves over the bust and meets in a soft point at the center, like the top of a drawn heart. Nine of our gowns have one. Most of the questions brides send us about it come down to two things: will it suit me, and will it stay put?
This guide answers both, and shows what changes when the bodice is cut to your own measurements.
What is a sweetheart neckline?
It follows the shape of the bust instead of cutting straight across it. On a strapless dress the curves sit directly on the body. Add thin straps, lace armbands or sleeves and you keep the heart shape with more support above it.
There are two common variations. A modified sweetheart has a shallower dip in the middle. An illusion sweetheart puts sheer lace or tulle above the curve, so the heart shape shows through and the chest stays covered.
Who does a sweetheart neckline flatter?
Almost everyone, which is why it has lasted. The curves draw the eye to the collarbones and shoulders and give the bodice a shape of its own. How it looks on you depends less on your body type than on how deep the dip is and what holds the bodice up.
- Hourglass figures. The neckline repeats curves you already have, especially with a fitted bodice and a flowing skirt.
- Pear shapes. It adds interest above the waist and balances fuller hips.
- Straight or athletic frames. Shaped cups and the curved edge create a softer line across the bust.
- Petite brides. A moderate dip opens up the neck and shoulders. A very deep one can swamp a small frame.
- Broad shoulders. The curve breaks up the horizontal line across the chest, and straps set slightly inward help too.
If you fall between shapes, or between sizes, that is where Custom Made earns its keep.
Full bust or small bust: getting the support right
A sweetheart bodice works at every bust size. What changes is the structure inside it.
With a fuller bust, the neckline needs enough height to hold you in, cups that actually fit, and some help from straps or armbands. A moderate dip looks balanced. A very low one leaves no margin when you lean in to hug someone.
With a smaller bust the risk is the opposite: an edge that stands away from the body. The fix is a bodice cut close to your bust and underbust, so the edge lies flat. Lace across the bodice adds texture where you want shape.
This is why we ask for bust, waist, hips and height with every Custom Made order. A bodice drafted from those numbers puts the cups and the center dip where your body is, not where a size chart guesses it will be. On our sweetheart gowns, the depth of the neckline can also be set to your preference.
Sweetheart vs. other necklines
Next to a straight strapless neckline, a sweetheart is softer and gives the bust more shape. Next to a scoop, it shows more of the collarbones. A plunging V is more dramatic and usually needs tape or special support. A sweetheart gives you some of that openness with far less to manage over a long day.
Still deciding? Our open back and deep V gowns and the wedding dress sleeve guide cover the directions brides usually weigh it against.
Sweetheart wedding dresses we make
All of these are French lace with a sweetheart neckline, in standard sizes or cut to your measurements.
Lace and chiffon. The Sophie Gown has a fitted lace bodice with cups, thin spaghetti straps and lace bands across a chiffon skirt. The Luna Gown is snug through the bodice and soft everywhere else. Both are light enough for a beach or a garden.
Lace and tulle. The Aurora Gown has a slightly sheer bodice with nude cups and a lace belt. The Flora Gown adds a low open back and an optional long train. The Nora Gown is the quietest of the group. The Sienna Gown, one of the most ordered gowns in our Etsy shop, pairs a soft lace bodice with a low back and a light tulle skirt.
With a high slit. The Juno Gown comes with detachable off-the-shoulder lace armbands, so you can wear the neckline two ways in one day. The Vera Gown pairs lace and tulle with a slit that shows up in every reception photo. The Odette Gown also combines a sweetheart lace bodice with a high slit.
Real brides in sweetheart gowns
Niki wore the Vera Gown to renew her vows in Puglia after 30 years. Tara chose the Sienna Gown, and Lior the Sophie Gown. See their photos and read what they wrote on our Real Brides page.
To see more, browse our boho wedding dresses or the lace and chiffon gowns.
Changing the neckline to suit you
Every gown is made to order, so the sweetheart does not have to stay exactly as photographed. Brides ask us to raise the center dip, make it deeper, add lace sleeves or choose a more opaque lining. Tell us before you order and Shany will say what works on that design and what does not. Our customization guide lists what you can change.
How long does it take?
Most of our gowns take 5-6 weeks to make, followed by DHL or UPS Express delivery in 3-5 business days. If your date is less than 10 weeks away, contact Shany before you order. Rush production is sometimes possible for an additional fee.
Frequently asked questions
Can I wear a sweetheart neckline with a large bust?
Yes. Look for cups built into the bodice, a neckline high enough to hold you in, and straps or armbands for extra support. A Custom Made bodice is drafted from your bust and underbust measurements, so it fits from the start.
Does a sweetheart neckline suit a small bust?
Yes. The curved edge adds shape, and a bodice cut to your measurements lies flat instead of gaping. Lace across the bodice adds texture as well.
Can a sweetheart neckline be more modest?
Yes. Raise the center dip, add lace sleeves, or choose an illusion version with sheer lace above the curve. Our modest wedding dress guide has more ideas.
What bra do I wear with a sweetheart wedding dress?
Often none. Several of our sweetheart gowns, like the Aurora and the Sophie, have cups built into the bodice. Ask about the gown you like and we will tell you how it is built.
Can I change the neckline depth?
Yes. On a Custom Made order, the depth of the dip can be set to your preference. Tell us when you send your measurements.
Two ways to order
On our website. The full collection, in standard sizes or made to your measurements. Shop the collection
On Etsy. The same studio, rated 5.0 across 215 reviews you can read before you order. Shop on Etsy
Talk to Shany first
Send Shany a photo of a neckline you love and tell her what worries you about it. She will point you to the gown that suits you and tell you what she would change. Ask Shany a question.
