Fabric Guide · From Our Atelier

A Bride's Guide to Wedding Dress Lace

Almost every bridal listing says "lace." Very few say which kind — and the difference is most of what you are paying for. This is how we choose lace in the workroom, and how you can judge it from a photograph.

The Four Laces You Will Actually Meet

Corded French A raised cord outlines every motif, so the pattern has real relief and catches light. Holds a shape, drapes with weight. The most expensive and the most photogenic.
Chantilly Fine, flat, netted ground with delicate floral motifs and a scalloped edge. Light and transparent — beautiful for sleeves, veils and illusion backs.
Stretch lace Lace knitted with elastane. Forgiving and cheap to fit, but the motif distorts when pulled and the surface reads flat and slightly shiny in photos.
Guipure / Venise Heavy, no net ground — motifs joined directly to each other. Bold and graphic. Structured rather than soft, so rarely a boho choice.

How to Judge Lace From a Photo

Look for shadow

Good lace casts tiny shadows along the cord. If the motif looks printed flat onto the fabric, it is a knitted stretch lace.

Follow the repeat

On a quality gown the pattern is placed, not just cut through. Motifs should meet at the seams and run unbroken over the bust.

Check the edge

A scalloped lace edge used as the hem or neckline finish — rather than a folded-over machine hem — is a reliable sign of hand finishing.

Which Lace for Which Part of the Dress

Sleeves. Chantilly or a light corded lace. Anything heavy will drag the shoulder seam down over a long day.

Bodice. Corded French lace. It has enough body to hold the neckline without boning, which is what lets a soft gown stay put.

Skirt and train. Lace appliqué over chiffon or tulle rather than solid lace — lighter to wear and far easier to travel with. See lace and chiffon wedding dresses.

Back and illusion panels. Fine net with placed motifs, so skin reads through between the flowers. Browse open back wedding dresses.

Ivory, Off-White or Nude Underneath

Lace colour is only half the decision — the lining underneath changes it completely. The same ivory lace over a nude lining reads warm and skin-toned; over an ivory lining it reads crisp and bridal; over champagne it warms further and photographs softer in daylight.

Because we cut each gown to order, the lining colour is a choice rather than a fixed spec. If you are unsure, send us a photo in daylight and we will tell you what we would pick.

Caring for a Lace Gown

Never fold corded lace along the same line twice — roll it. Steam from a distance and never press a hot iron directly onto the cord, which flattens the relief permanently. Store hung on a padded hanger with the weight of the skirt supported, or flat in acid-free tissue. Avoid plastic garment bags for long-term storage; they trap moisture and yellow the fibres.

From the journal: French Lace vs Stretch Lace: Why Fabric Matters · A-Line vs Sheath: Which Silhouette Is Right for You? · Vintage Boho Wedding Dresses

See the Lace in the Gowns

Browse vintage lace wedding dresses and lace and chiffon gowns, available in standard sizes, or cut to your own measurements for about $100 more.

Shop All Wedding Dresses Take the Style Quiz

Wondering about fit? See how made-to-measure works.